Fall Beauty: Modernity Revamped
by Anne-Marie Guarnieri
FROM LEFT: Runway look from Diane von Furstenberg; Perfect Mascara Defining Volume in black, Shiseido ($23). Saks Fifth Avenue, 611 Fifth Ave.; saks.com; Ombre Contraste Duo in Gris-Subtil, Chanel ($42). Bloomingdale’s, 1000 Third Ave.; bloomingdales.com; Corn Flower pigment ($19.50) and Fluidline Eye Liner Gel in Blacktrack ($15), MAC. MAC counters citywide; maccosmetics.com.
MAC's James Kaliardos, the lead makeup artist for Diane von Furstenberg, wanted to reference the themes of metamorphosis and change in her fall collection by emphasizing a dramatic eye. “She has such a strong identity and her brand does, and I always like pulling from that era of Studio 54,” he says, which showed in the pops of sparkle that punctuated the look. “I love colors that change. You think you’re looking at green, but it’s purple, then it’s kind of blue, and then it’s iridescent…. It’s just this really strong, cool eye.”
FROM LEFT: Look from Marc Jacobs; Pure Matte lipstick in Tashkent, Nars ($25). Saks Fifth Avenue, 611 Fifth Ave.; saks.com; Colour in Desert Suede and Asphalt, CND ($9 each). The Salon and Spa at Saks Fifth Avenue, 611 Fifth Ave.; cnd.com.
CND's Roxanne Valinoti, with help from Elisa Ferri, created five nail looks for Marc Jacobs’ fall/winter show, all of them a variation on greige. “Marc gave us swatches of the fabric and said, ‘Match it,’” Ferri says. “We kept on layering and layering until we gave him exactly what he wanted.” The five looks were made by combining a variety of CND shades (up to six different colors per look), but a close approximation can be achieved using two coats of Asphalt and one coat of Desert Suede.
For the same show, François Nars created a look for “cool, worn-out” girls. “You want the girl to look sexy and cool, in a little bit of a worn-out way, but still looking beautiful, no matter what,” he says. Part of that slouchy chic was reflected in the soft-matte, nude lip—a refreshing change from past seasons’ vivid pinks and reds and shiny glosses. “The girl has more of an intellectual look. There’s nothing plastic…. It’s more special and interesting.”
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photographs by andrew thomas (dvf look); david lewi s taylor (makeup); jennifer graylock (marc jacobs)