These days, the traditionally underembellished male has a little more to work with, thanks to new offerings by emerging artists and established houses that previously designed for women only. We discuss the trend with a few of jewelry’s leading lads.
"Our new London Calling collection features our renowned thorn motif, along with the ironwork, masonry and gargoyles of Victorian London as well as some of its most famous characters. These elements have all been mixed up, then stripped down and distilled into a collection that encompasses all the pieces needed by a contemporary man, told through engraved dog tags... and griffin-spine bracelets.”
—STEPHEN WEBSTER
Silver and quartz crystal thorn bullet pendant on 20-inch box belcher chain from the Thorn Collection by Stephen Webster ($550). Saks Fifth Avenue, 611 Fifth Ave., 212-753-4000
“Our goal is to imbue every piece we design with a sense of centered well-being. If we knot the macramé with brown and string the bracelet with ebony beads and the brown-diamond version of what a friend [calls] ‘magical little disco balls of pavéd goodness,’ you have a bracelet that is both distinctive and masculine.”
—MADS KORNERUP, CREATIVE DIRECTOR-FOUNDER, SHAMBALLA JEWELS
Adjustable bracelet of ebony and macramé with brown diamonds by Shamballa Jewels ($6,200). Barneys New York, 660 Madison Ave., 212-826-8900
"After 10 years of doing one-offs, I decided it was time to start a men’s line where each handmade piece contains the highestquality materials and features a timeless elegance and an exclusive design conveying contemporary style.”
—MARCO BICEGO
Signature handwoven coil 18k yellow gold bangle by Marco Bicego L’Uomo ($2,100). marcobicego.com
“Most men initially visit Tournaire to purchase pieces for their wives and girlfriends, ultimately returning to buy jewelry for themselves. Years ago, men leaned toward pendants, as they wanted something they could hide. Now we find an ever-increasing demand for more visible pieces, including rings and bracelets.”
—FRÉDÉRIC SAINTROMAIN, PRESIDENT, TOURNAIRE
Handmade Manhattan 18k gold ring by Tournaire ($8,122). ViewPoint, 10 E. 38th St., Second Floor, 212-696-1870
“Just last year I started experimenting with leather cuffs, creating one for myself—to go with my Harley-Davidson— and another for my brother, Benjamin. Friends and private customers saw these, and we’ve found a huge demand for them.”
—SEVAN BIÇAKÇI
One-of-a-kind carved-leather cuff by Sevan Biçakçi ($26,889). Barneys New York, 660 Madison Ave., 212-826-8900
“Today men are really starting to care about some of the finer things in life. We are attracted to what is earthy and unique and also those things that express our individuality, so we connect with the look and feel of the raw diamonds. More and more, in lieu of a tie, men are showing up wearing a terrific pin or great cuff links. It’s a wonderful statement.” —TODD REED
One-of-a-kind hand-forged and -fabricated 18k gold and rawdiamond cuff links ($11,250) and 18k gold ring with a raw diamond of more than 10 carats ($16,000) by Todd Reed. DVVS Fine Jewelry, 263A W. 19th St., 212-366-4888; Takashimaya, 693 Fifth Ave., 212- 350-0100; Clay Pot, 162 Seventh Ave., Brooklyn, 718-788-6564
