As the Spring 2012 shows progressed, there was a growing feeling of a more demure New Yorker, one who wears pastels and florals, A-line skirts, and Peter Pan collars. Once the European shows took off, it was evident that a major trend of the season recalled a 1950s female: Miuccia Prada presented an exuberant, playful take on the era, with pastel color fields and waist-defining silhouettes; Marc Jacobs envisioned a fanciful take on the decade at Louis Vuitton; and Marco Zanini’s take at Rochas was, in a contradictory word, futuristic. “Retro glamour is back this season with curve-contouring dresses, drop-waist trousers, and other Mad Men–esque silhouettes,” notes Net-a- Porter’s buying director, Holli Rogers. “New York women love these chic, ladylike styles, especially revamped with an urban touch of their own.”

Heritage leather-goods label Coach also looked to the ’50s and ’60s, joining forces with the Tony Duquette estate for a capsule collection with a similarly charming, sophisticated aesthetic. “Coach collaborated with Tony Duquette because we respect him so much as an American master,” says Kimberly Price, senior vice president of design management at the label. “Tony was the opposite of a minimalist in all that he did. He loved the phrase ‘more is more,’ and we loved the idea of bringing his creativity, energy, and inspiration to life.”

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