Much as fashion editors complain about the insanity of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, they also secretly hope to discover fresh talent. And while young designers and consistency don’t always coincide, fashion insiders have unanimously anointed Joseph Altuzarra, 27, as one to watch. He rarely disappoints.
Though Altuzarra grew up in France, he inherited his American English from his mom, now the CEO of his young company. He studied art history at Swarthmore, concentrating on fashion and architecture, and has already done quality time at Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler and Givenchy. With not one but two financier parents, he has the background and global outlook to turn his It Boy status into a respected international brand.
During our interview, Altuzarra wears a pair of Loden Dager shorts and a T-shirt from Zimmerli. A pattern maker gave him his Hermès bracelet. The old-school watch is a digital Timex. Even his ratty couch has a history: It’s a hand-medown from Proenza Schouler, inherited when he took over their space. A photo of his good friend Vanessa Traina hangs on the wall.
Though Altuzarra’s fashion has a youthful exuberance, he imagines his customer as ageless. “I don’t think it’s only a 20-year-old who wants to feel sexy and seductive today,” he says. “A 50-, 60-year-old woman wants to feel the same way. Women spend so much time at the gym, on cosmetic surgery.”
Altuzarra based this season’s seductively dark, fur-trimmed collection on Edward Scissorhands. “I was interested in Edward as an outwardly monstrous-looking creature who is in fact very tragic and fragile,” he explains. “The irregular lacing looks a bit like when you get stitches, butit’s hand-done; there is a lot of craft.”
Altuzarra experienced a real-life Goth tale when, as a high schooler, he answered an ad to help restore an abbey in the North of France. “It turned out to be a fraud,” says Altuzarra. “The town just wanted young people to help build a wall near the abbey. People came from Italy, Germany, all over, and were super disillusioned. We were living in tents in a meadow. There were crazy love affairs, love triangles. I was sharing a tent with this super-Goth punk. One night he wanted to show us a cabin in the woods he had found. He was kind of devil a worshiper, and when we arrived at the cabin, he killed a rabbit and sprayed rabbit’s blood on the ground in the shape of a pentagram. One girl had a panic attack and fainted… so French.”
Intriguing. But the greatest thing about being transcontinental? “I’m not always in town,” he says. “I draw in Paris, spend a lot of time in Italy at the factory. I’m in my own bubble.”
