In the days leading up to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, top designers hole up in their ateliers, working around the clock to finish the collections that will be shown on the world stage, distilling months of work down to minutes on a catwalk. And in those final days beauty trends are born: Discussions between designer and makeup artist culminate in looks that are translated for the consumer, ready for purchase roughly four months after the shows have ended.
Gotham got exclusive access to the makeup test for Thakoon Panichgul’s Spring/Summer collection, just two days before his show. “This is the first meeting, but we’ve talked over the phone a bit,” said NARS lead artist Diane Kendal, who created the beauty look. “Thakoon showed us the clothes and fabrics, and they have their mood board, so you get a real feel for what he’s after.”
The Collection: Thakoon’s spring collection was for “real girls.” “She’s a tomboy, a girl who’s really cool,” says the designer, whose work has been seen on First Lady Michelle Obama. The idea was to create a feeling of air and freshness, which translated to the sheer fabrics he chose. “The lightness of the fabrics is offset by the groundedness of the girls.”
The Beauty Look: Kendal envisioned a glowy, lit-from-within face, “but not too bronzy or tan,” she says. “We came up with the idea of using gold at the top of cheek and contouring the face, to define it. Strong, but very beautiful at the same time. She looks very confident, very sure of herself.”