Viennese Cuisine with Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner
by allison polster
In chef Kurt Gutenbrunner’s volume Neue Cuisine (Rizzoli New York; $45), the acclaimed New York-based, Austrian-born chef shares his secrets to the two S’s of Viennese cuisine: schnitzels and strudels. The recipe book features Viennese delicacies from the menus of New York restaurants Wallsé, Blaue Gans, and the Neue Galerie’s Café Sabarsky that beg to be enjoyed during the holidays, as each dish exudes a feeling of warmth and comfort. Colorful entrées such as lake perch with melted leeks, tomatoes, capers, and kalamata olives or lobster with cherries, fava beans, and béarnaise sauce offer a festive delight for the eye while the more understated Christmas goose serves as a holiday classic.
When it comes to dessert, Gutenbrunner favors the Salzburger Nockerl, a dumpling soufflé with warm berries, as well as the Dobostorte, a caramel-cream layer cake that is “so refined with its different layers and crunchy caramel on top.” While these treats top his holiday list, the chef, forever Austrian at heart, cannot imagine, “Who can forget about the strudels?”
The highly personal book also spotlights the chef’s passion for art. Photographer Ellen Silverman captures the beauty of each dish and pairs his fare with tableware from turn-of-thecentury Vienna and art from Gutenbrunner’s restaurants. Rounded out by works from the Neue Galerie’s collection, the tome perfectly reflects Gutenbrunner’s world, in which “art and food are very close.” Available at bookstores citywide. Wallsé, 344 W. 11th St., 212-352-2300; Blaue Gans, 139 Duane St., 212-571-8880; Café Sabarsky, 1048 Fifth Ave., 212-288-0665
photograph by Ellen silverman from neue cuisine