Whether launching a restaurant or raising his kids, Tom Colicchio—who opened his newest venture, Colicchio & Sons, in January and became a father last year for the second time—has a knack. “I feel as though kids are the sweet spot where your past and future collide,” he says. “That’s what this restaurant is for me. I’m bringing all of my history to a new place where I’ll continue to evolve.”

Riffing on the success of his Tom: Tuesday Dinner, Colicchio & Sons (located in the former Craftsteak space) maintains a farm-to-table sensibility using small-batch ingredients prepared by Shane McBride and chef Colicchio himself. Standout menu items include gnocchi with chestnuts, black truffl e, bone marrow and Brussels sprouts and roasted turbot with raisin-caper emulsion and romanescu. And the front-of-the-house Tap Room offers 28 artisan beers, an impressive wine list and a menu of specialties (offered after 11 PM ) that features such dishes as chorizo-stuffed porchetta and pizza.

It’s a return to cooking, what Colicchio loves best (aside from his family, that is). And after years of championing food with honest flavors and an actual backstory, the message has finally been received. “I no longer have to educate diners about great ingredients,” he says. “I can use them as the jumping-off point for some very personal cooking.” Colicchio & Sons, 85 10th Ave., 212-400-6699