GOTHAM: You were recently in Russia on vacation—what did you observe about the style there?
ANNA SUI: Because of fast-paced global culture, we’re all connected to everyone else on the planet. So many people nowadays have access to the Internet. Everyone has [access] to the same information at the same time. My impression of contemporary women is that in big cities like Beijing, Istanbul and Moscow they dress exactly like women in New York, Paris and London. This homogenous international style is a new worldwide phenomenon. Everyone is looking at the same thing, and new ideas are available for global consumption at an increasingly rapid pace.
And how about NYC?
New York still seems like the center of the world. Living here is so inspirational. The best of everything is available here, or will come here—museum and gallery shows, up-to-the-minute bands, international cinema, cuisines from every corner of the planet, amazing shopping. It’s my home. As a child growing up in the suburbs of Detroit, I always fantasized about living here. Some of my favorite New York places are The Little Owl, Freemans, Keens Steak House, Il Cantinori, Serendipity, Bemelmans Bar at The Carlyle and The Campbell Apartment at Grand Central Station, Resurrection Vintage, ABC Carpet, Hello Sari, the flea markets, the Neue Galerie, The Museum of Modern Art, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Garren Salon and Elizabeth Ryan Floral Design.
What inspired you to get into this industry?
My best friend from childhood tells me that I was talking about being a designer when I was four years old. I’m sure I had no idea what I meant when I said, “I’m going to be a fashion designer,” but I knew I liked to watch my mother sew, and I loved to go fabric shopping with her, and make my own clothes. I started my career with the idea of designing for rock stars and people who went to rock concerts… and I still design for them.
What or who are some of your inspirations today?
Marcel Proust, Bat for Lashes, the Marchesa Casati, Jack White, Max Ophüls, Anita Pallenberg, Toulouse-Lautrec.
How would you describe your design aesthetic?
There’s always a very sweet feminine, girly aspect—a touch of nostalgia. There’s also the aspect of trendiness, the hipness I try to create by always adding a rock ’n’ roll coolness. There’s always that ambiguity, the good girl/ bad girl thing. Every product I put my name on has to personify the “World of Anna Sui.” When a customer buys a tube of lipstick it should give them the same excitement as buying a dress from my collection. If it doesn’t, then I’m not really doing my job.
What trends are you excited about this season?
Sundresses, baby doll dresses and short, pouffy prom dresses. I like zippered-pleat minis, short flirty flamenco skirts, balloon silhouettes, softtailored jackets, skinny jeans and rompers. I’m in the mood for charm, optimism and buoyancy.
What is a must-have accessory for you this fall?
In my show, almost every look was styled with a knit cap stuck with a jeweled ostrich feather—we bought the hats from street vendors, James Coviello added the plumage and Erickson Beamon jeweled the feathers.
Have you ever had a bad fashion moment?
Once I got my hair permed… big mistake.
What are your forthcoming projects?
This fall is the launch of my new collaboration with Target inspired by the television show Gossip Girl. Also, my new fragrance, Rock Me!, debuts with wonderful ads featuring Agyness Deyn and photographed by Steven Meisel.
What have been the greatest rewards of your success?
One of the biggest compliments is when someone tells me, “I have a dress I bought from you 10 years ago, and every time I wear it my husband tells me I look beautiful.” You can’t ask for more.
